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©Dean Starnes - Humba Silverback

2011 was an exciting year for Virunga National Park. Because tourism is vital to the sustainability of the park, we concentrated efforts on developing and marketing the park as a unique and exciting tourist attraction…and as a result, we nearly doubled the number of visitors to the park. Funding from the European Union has been key to making all this possible and we are grateful for their support.

MIKENO LODGE:

Mikeno Lodge in Rumangabo

The year started with an empty forest in the hills of Rumangabo, but the place was full of dreams. In 2010 the plans were drawn up for the construction of a lodge in the middle of the southern sector of Virunga National Park. Within that vision the Lodge (now called Mikeno Lodge) would become the centre of all tourism attractions: the gorillas, Nyiragongo Volcano and later the Tongo chimpanzee treks. Even though the management of Virunga was slightly ambitious in projecting the lodge to be finished within the first 6 months of 2011, a lot of work was done and from the bare ground a lodge & twelve pristine bungalows rose up in the shadows of the mighty jungle.

One of 12 lava-stone bungalows at Mikeno Lodge

MARKETING:

In parallel to the construction of the lodge, additional focus was directed towards marketing of our products as well as linking up with partners capable of finding clients to visit Virunga. We thus launched the brand new tourism website, www.visitvirunga.org, where an entire trip can be booked and a visa purchased; we were represented at the Tanzanian Travel Expo in Arusha for the first time, and we started partnerships with an additional dozen tour operators from all over the world, expanding our reach and international marketing efficiency.

IMPROVEMENTS:

A visitor stands near the Nyiragongo volcano rim, next to one of the new overnight shelters.

Our existing products were improved and professionalized; Bukima camp where gorilla treks begin has received a facelift and a new permanent manager, enabling a stay that includes a prepared cooked meal. New shelters were built on the top of Nyiragongo volcano, finally enabling climbers to get some sleep on the top without being thrown around in a tent. And our sales office got some much needed attention and color, the white face aptly colored orange to match our logo, turning a few more heads in Goma.

Bukima Patrol Post Camp, where gorilla treks begin, received a facelift.

VOLCANO ERUPTION:

After two months, Nyamulagira volcano continues to erupt, giving visitors an experience of a lifetime.

Unexpectedly we got a tourism boost in November when Nyamulagira volcano suddenly erupted and created a brand new tourism attraction as well as amazing positive media coverage. Over 230 media articles (printed and online) were published about visiting Virunga and the eruption in particular.

RESULTS:

All this work was not for nothing, as we received thousands of visitors to our park our goal was to double the amount of permits sold in 2010 (1800), so we aimed high and tried to achieve a mighty 3600 visits to the park. The eventual numbers were a bit less but still extremely good. The counter last year stopped at: 3239 park visits.

2012 is looking good as we have had our first visitors to our brand new attraction: the Tongo Chimps. Mikeno Lodge is opening its doors in January and Nyamulagira is still erupting and open for visitors (only for groups of 8 or more). We will also be investing time and effort into developing the Ruwenzori mountains as an alpinist destination. Our target for this year will be 4500 visits, so we will have to work hard to make those numbers, but we are ambitious and hopeful!

Thirty percent of the revenue from tourism goes back into the communities where we’ve build nine schools and one health center. 50% goes to ICCN, the Congolese Wildlife Authority to support other parks in Congo. 20% comes back to Virunga to support operational costs. We still have a long way to go before tourism will support the expenses of keeping Virunga National Park alive, but we are on our way.

So tell your friends about our park, have a look at our website and plan your trip to the oldest and best national park in Africa!

Ranger Romeo on his 2nd trip to the eruption site. ©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

Virunga National Park specializes in some pretty amazing experiences, including visits to the critically endangered mountain gorillas, and an active volcano with the largest lava lake in the world. It’s hard to top these attractions, but I think we actually have, and it’s for a limited time only. Starting now, we’ve opened up overnight treks to the site of our newly erupting volcano, Nyamulagira.

After checking out the site on Wednesday, it was decided that we could allow visitors into a safe area just south of the eruption, and set up a basic tented camp there. Since there are no guarantees for how long this eruption will last, we had to move quickly to get everything ready for our first group on Saturday.

On Friday around midday we set out on our trek with a group of men numbering about 100: a section of rangers, the park warden – Emmanuel de Merode, Dario Tedesco - a renowned volcanologist and his team, a couple of carpenters, and about 75 porters.  The trek took about 3 hours to get to a view of the erupting volcano.

Emmanuel stands in the closest area allowed by volcanologist Dario Tedesco. ©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

Dario felt we could safely get closer so we hiked a bit further until we came to a section where the vegetation ended and the ground was covered in small pebbles of weightless lava gravel. The thundering roar of the volcano was incredible and the heat of the 100 meter column of lava clearly tangible. Here Dario put the mark for “no further” (and believe me, I don’t think I wanted to get any closer…).

The eruption site is truly amazing. It’s located on a flat area, but the sides have been building up around the crack over the last week. Dario pointed out that it is not just one crater, but a crack in the earth about 500-1000 meters long, and what makes it different is that the crack has appeared perpendicular to the Albertine rift, which is highly unusual. The lava of Nyamulagira has a low silica content resulting in lava with a low viscosity (very fluid), which in turn results in the amazing lava fountain. Because the lava flowing north is mostly flat land, it is not moving fast.

Setting up camp near the volcano. ©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

While we stood there in complete awestruck exhilaration, the wind changed directions and the debris from the lava started turning toward us and slowly began raining down on us. It was cooled, highly aerated lava – scary, but the pebbles weigh close to nothing, so it would be comparable to a heavy hail-storm - a bit sharp on the edges but not dangerous. With darkness closing in, we decided to head back to a safe distance to establish the tented camp in an area of untouched vegetation.

The camp has a remarkable view of the eruption and actually stayed pleasantly warm throughout the night due to the proximity of the eruption. Trust me, no campfires are necessary. We spent hours watching the fountain change shape and size, from barely visible to massive columns of fire 200 meters high. Absolutely incredible.

©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

Following the trek, Dario wrote us saying, “This is definitely the best and most spectacular eruption of Nyamulagira I have ever seen. The 200-300 meter lava fountains, the closeness and the arrangement of the camping site, and finally the incredible show given by the lights of the incandescent lava made everything special… more than special.”

It was the most intense experience of the power of the earth I have ever witnessed. I would say it’s a once in a lifetime experience, but I would be lying. It’s a once in a century one.

The overnight treks to the eruption site officially opened on Saturday the 12th at Virunga National Park, with a camp located at a safe distance, but with the best view in the world! Come and check it out for as long as the eruption lasts. For more information contact tourism@gorilla.cd

©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

Cai Tjeenk Willink, Development Director of the park. ©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

Location of the camp in a safe area. ©Cai Tjeenk Willink-Virunga National Park

The story of climbing the unclimbable Mt Mikeno

Mt. Mikeno - one of the Virunga Massif volcanoes that had not been climbed in 28 years…until August 2011.

Shivering from cold, exhaustion, adrenaline and fear I climbed the last meters to summit the toughest of the Virunga volcanoes:  Mikeno Mountain.  Panting on hands and knees I looked next to me to see my two adventurous companions, Lewis and Pierre, coming over the edge on either side of me, both looking a little scared, but mostly hopeful that after 5 fake summits this was the real deal. Pierre was breathing heavily with yellow moss hanging from his chin as a result of Lewis’ mountaineering tip: “when the climbing gets steep kiss the moss and don’t look down.” Pierre had clearly taken this quite literally.

Mikeno’s steep mossy slope with Nyiragongo Volcano in the distance.

Two days earlier we had started our trek filled with the courage of young men, and expectations (and preparations) of 5-years-old boys. The fact that the mountain had not been summitted for almost 30 years did nothing to diminish our fierce conviction that we would pretty much walk up that thing and plant the figurative flag. One hour later when I felt the cold rain creeping down my back I started to get the sinking feeling that perhaps this venture would not be the jog in the park that I had envisioned it to be.

The team: Pierre, Frederick, Lewis, Saymyhoney, Cai

It took us about 4 hours to get to the first campsite: Kabara, the burial site of Carl Akeley (18 Nov 1926). We searched for the actual grave and found it in pieces, apparently Congolese and/or Rwandese rebels had pillaged the grave for the enormous amounts of gold that were never buried with Mr. Akeley.  As it continued to rain we decided not to try and make it to the second camp site in one day, but set up camp and scout the area a little (read: set up tent and having a little snooze). That night we enjoyed Lewis’ recipe for mountaineering success: instant noodles with sardines (which is remarkably good) and went to bed early to get up fresh for the first summit attempt. It rained the entire night and when we woke up it still rained. However we were men of steel, not of sugar, so after cowering in our tent for 30 minutes waiting for the rain to stop we decided that it was time to leave.

African alpine vegetation on the higher slopes of Mt. Mikeno.

The trek up from Kabara is tough, a 60-degree hill completely covered in ankle (sometimes knee) deep mud, obviously carrying massive backpacks did not help to improve the situation. Unfortunately this was still the easy part of the mountain, so we decided not to complain about it and just get on with it. Or at least that was Lewis’ attitude. Pierre and I were near throwing up and complaining loudly to the trees around us. However we got through, and at the top of that stretch the world slowly started to evolve into the fairy-land of African alpine vegetation. Another 2 hours later (and still it rained), we made it to campsite two. Nameless as this location was, it must be one of the most amazing campsites in the world. Pitched on a little ridge just wide enough to put your tent, the panorama was astounding: In the west the smoking Nyiragongo volcano could be seen, in the south the majestic Karisimbi, in the west the smaller but very attractive Visoke and  to the north very close to us a wall, a massive wall of stone…. Our accompanying rangers looked at it, laughed in our faces and said, “you will never make it to the top. It’s impossible!” And I must say, I believed them.

The campsite with the spectacular view.

The next morning we rang Pierre’s lovely girlfriend who we desperately needed to look into a 50-year-old book describing the route to the summit. The book said something along the lines of, “Go up the first steep part, continue right along the ridge until you can go no further, turn back for a bit and then go up.” As far as useless advise goes, this was a winner. Since at this point I had absolutely no faith in us making it all the way to the top, I decided just to enjoy the trek and stop if it got too dangerous.

Yes, it was very steep. Too steep. Stupidly steep.

Clearly adrenaline screws with your mind because two hours later when I was balancing on a small ridge with a 100m drop on either side of me and the only thing stopping me from falling was my grip on some loose, wet, yellow moss…it didn’t seem like I stopped when it became dangerous at all. Since we were half way up, it obviously was no longer an option to turn back (I think they call it “summit fever”), so with fear in our eyes we continued to scramble up the mossy slopes. I vaguely remembered that during our preparations Pierre had suggested we bring a rope. For reasons unknown to me, our fearless lead climber Lewis had been of the opinion it wouldn’t be necessary; I decided I would make him eat those words (as well as the rope) if we made it down alive.

Two feet of moss.

After a harrowing 4-hour climb we made it to the top, and without being very emotional about it…it was very emotional. I felt a mix of elation, pride to be one of the very few ever to get up there (apparently less than 20 people), gratitude that I was still alive, anger that the bloody mountain top was completely covered in mist so I could hardly see my own feet let alone the incredible view, and lastly fear, fear for the way down…

Semi-delirious after reaching the summit.

A couple of quick summit snaps later, which were pretty crappy due to the mist, and a 2-minute search for Pierre’s lost lens cap, we decided that it was time to head on down. It was already past 11:00 am and we needed to get all the way down to Goma the same day. Strangely enough the way down went relatively smoothly and quicker than expected. It was sort of a very long, vertical, slippery-slide of moss mixed in with the infrequent but extremely unpleasant protruding rock that would abruptly eliminate any such pleasant thoughts (just imagine a rock being glued to the middle of a slippery-slide).

The rocky slippery slide down the mountain.

After making it down to the easier section of the mountain, we had a little party, many hugs, tears and jumping for joy.  Unfortunately we still had about 5 hours of descent to go. Anyway, to get to the end of the story: we made it all the way back safely, exhausted and in severe pain, but an experience and one achievement richer.

So for historic purposes I would just like to claim the following:

On August the 14th, 2011 Mikeno Mountain was summitted for the first time in 28 years by:
Lewis Mudge
Pierre Peron
Cai Tjeenk Willink

The historic team at the summit of Mt. Mikeno:

It has been an exciting 3 days. With our specialist team of “marketing experts”: Balemba, Piet and myself, represented Virunga National Park at the tourism trade fair in Arusha last weekend.

The place of the event.

We did some serious networking and talked to many interested potential visitors. Thanks to LuAnne, Philippa and Sara, we had very nice promotional materials and people were impressed with what we had to offer.

Promotional materials.

This was one of the first steps in a larger and long term marketing plan for the park and was mainly aimed at informing people Virunga exists and is an amazing destination. On the other hand it served a a perfect networking platform to meet tour operators in Eastern Africa that would be among the primary suppliers of our visitors.

Check out some of the pictures of our stand and us handsome men representing it…

From left: Piet, Balemba and Cai.

Next on the agenda will be a shared (Congolese) stand at the London fair in November.

The great moment is here! It took a little longer than expected, but the result is never the less amazing:

Our tourism website is online!

The website will give all information required for adventurers who would like to visit the great sites of Virunga National Park. It also currently facilitates direct bookings of gorilla permits online as well as services such as lodging, camps, transport etc.

Don’t waste a moment, go and check out: www.visitvirunga.org !

Last week our team of skillful roof engineers have started on the roof of the main building of the Lodge. Not a simple task….

Did you know:

- That we need 200 support beams for the main building

- That the support beams are interlinked by 1000 little beams for supporting the grass

- That the roof will carry 20 truckloads of grass cut from our own park

3 more days and the first ever tourism promotion in Virunga will start and it will be exciting! So far there have been about 100 reservations made for the short two week promotion. Most people come from not too far away (Goma, Kigali, Bukavu), but there are people that have traversed oceans to make it, we even have some reservations all the way from Brasil! The promotion is an important moment for Virunga, it brings in many visitors and there is nothing like good old word of mouth marketing. So if you are going and you like what you see, make sure that you tell your friends and family.

Now LuAnne is on holiday and I finally get to write a blog post myself I would like to use the moment to tell you a little more about the plans for tourism this year; and the headway we have made over the last period; the trusted blog readers will know most of it, but for the infrequent readers it might be insightful.

This year we have built the new Nyiragongo Crater Cabanas, where previous years the night on the edge of the crater were mostly lying awake with a lava rock sticking in your back and a tent flapping in your face, these days staying up top is like lounging in the Waldorf (well not exactly but nice enough to actually get some rest).

This is the effect the lava lake has on most people that see it for the first time, perfectly illustrated by our blog’s favorite LuAnne

The biggest project as you all know is the construction of Mikeno Lodge, a 12 bungalow paradise in the hills of Rumangabo is being constructed out of crude lava rock and grass roofs. The project alone gives more than 300 local people a job for over 6 months as well as permanent jobs as waiters, cooks etc. and not too forget there will be a bar quite close to the headquarters which makes life for us poor people living at Rumangabo a lot more interesting.

Further projects underway include the refurbishing of our tented camp at Bukima, the refurbishing of the Tourism office and last but not least the opening of a new reception at the start of the volcano trek.

In line with the big push for tourism we will also be launching a specific tourism website  www.visitvirunga.org), more about that in a post later this month.

If you are lucky enough to live close to Virunga make sure you do not let the promotion go to waste and come visit the gorillas and/or volcano for only half the permit price!

Our beautiful fire-breathing Nyiragongo volcano is open to visitors again after the successful operation in the forests north of the volcano has confirmed that the area is now secure.

The trek and surrounding area is considered safe and today the first group of visitors set out for the volcano rim. You can’t hear us, but we’re all cheering over here in the park.

Welcome back. Come visit!