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The job of ranger or officer at Virunga National Park is unlike any ranger position anywhere. When the statistics reflect the highest death-rate among rangers of any national park in the world, you can be assured this job is not for the weak or untrained. When militia or poachers would happily kill you over a piece of land or animal, as a ranger or officer you better know what to do.

This is why the park has required that every officer complete a two-month officer-training course in leadership and principles of command, conducted at the northern headquarters of Mutsora at the base of the Rwenzori mountains.

“I’ve been an officer for 6 years, and this is the first time I have gone through this kind of intense professional officer training,” said Bertin Tumonakiese, coordinator for security operations at headquarters and assistant to the director.

In the last seven months, 67 officers have completed the training, which officially concluded on October 21st. It included courses in leadership, tactics, shooting, close combat, radio procedures, and intensive physical training – all for the purpose of making them better equipped to lead rangers in difficult challenges to protect the park when threatened with danger. Many exercises took place around Lake Edward where militia attacks and poaching are common. It was an intense time for the officers, and most came away with high-level skills to lead others.

“It was fantastic,” Bertin said. “I used to send out patrols, but didn’t really know how to instruct them in good strategies, but now I do. I learned the best way to respond when you are confronted by militia or poachers and how best to protect the group. I am more confident now.”

Bertin plays the injured ranger in a training exercise.

Patrol post still smoldering from the fire of an attack.

Last weekend, Sept 24th and 25th, a Virunga patrol post at the fishing village of Vitshumbi on Lake Edward was attacked. Fortunately the rangers received an order to withdraw from this position well before the attack and so received no injury. Unfortunately, the damage to property was severe. The patrol station, a stone building, was set on fire, and a paillotte, a natural wood and thatch building, burned to the ground. Boats and engines were seriously damaged or completely destroyed and rangers’ houses looted.

The attack appeared to be retaliation following an incident between our rangers and armed poachers the previous day where one poacher was killed. ICCN (Congolese Wildlife Authority) has requested an investigation by the military court, which is on-going.

The charred ground where the paillotte used to stand.

One of several damaged motors from the patrol boats.

by Gilbert Dillis, security officer for the park

Rangers on Patrol - ©Brent Stirton/Getty Images

I went on a patrol with the rangers on Tuesday. The mission of the patrol was to penetrate the forest to check up on forest destruction from charcoal.  I also wanted to assess the effectiveness of our patrols, which is an important part of my work.

The procedure is pretty standard.  The patrol leader gives a briefing. About fifteen men make their way into a green mass of vegetation. It’s critical that each ranger knows exactly what his place is within the patrol.
  Once the order to depart is given, the patrol moves into the thick forest.

On these kinds of patrols, we move along virtually invisible small tracks but the rangers are familiar with the terrain.  The forest is on volcanic ground covered with large rocks, making movement all the more difficult.

We have to move quietly, following pre-established instructions, and remaining constantly vigilant.   Too many rangers have been killed after falling into an ambush in this kind of terrain. Distances between rangers on patrol must be respected, not to close, not too far.

On reaching a clearing, the patrol leader orders the men to stop without saying a word, and sends a small team to inspect the way ahead.  This is a patch of forest known to shelter charcoal producers, poachers, and also armed groups. Vigilance is crucial. We stop, we listen.  This time we hear only the distant hooting of a group of chimpanzees.

We continue beyond the clearing, into a deep patch of forest. With the strong rains of these last few days, we wade knee deep through the mud.  We don’t allow for any complaining. Every one knows that silence is our most important defence.

Clearing out marijuana that is planted after the illegal charcoal is made.

Finally we reach the charcoal sites, and take note of the fact that the area remains intact since the last patrol a few weeks ago. The destruction of the forest in this area, at least, seems to have stopped. The patrol leader decides to follow another track, and we reach a small cleared area where the men note that extensive marijuana fields have been planted. The fields are destroyed and we move on.

The patrol continues to advance on other paths, but time passes quickly. After a small halt to recover, the patrol leader announces that it is time to return. The men, who are still always quiet, arrive back at the patrol station where the vehicles wait for them.

This was a short patrol, but useful both to show that the park is present in the area, but also enable our new to get used to operating in hostile terrain.  It’s very reassuring to see that they can navigate effectively through the forest.  Seven months’ training in Lulimbi has been put to good use.

A Virunga forest - ©Brent Stirton/Getty Images