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The story of climbing the unclimbable Mt Mikeno

Mt. Mikeno - one of the Virunga Massif volcanoes that had not been climbed in 28 years…until August 2011.

Shivering from cold, exhaustion, adrenaline and fear I climbed the last meters to summit the toughest of the Virunga volcanoes:  Mikeno Mountain.  Panting on hands and knees I looked next to me to see my two adventurous companions, Lewis and Pierre, coming over the edge on either side of me, both looking a little scared, but mostly hopeful that after 5 fake summits this was the real deal. Pierre was breathing heavily with yellow moss hanging from his chin as a result of Lewis’ mountaineering tip: “when the climbing gets steep kiss the moss and don’t look down.” Pierre had clearly taken this quite literally.

Mikeno’s steep mossy slope with Nyiragongo Volcano in the distance.

Two days earlier we had started our trek filled with the courage of young men, and expectations (and preparations) of 5-years-old boys. The fact that the mountain had not been summitted for almost 30 years did nothing to diminish our fierce conviction that we would pretty much walk up that thing and plant the figurative flag. One hour later when I felt the cold rain creeping down my back I started to get the sinking feeling that perhaps this venture would not be the jog in the park that I had envisioned it to be.

The team: Pierre, Frederick, Lewis, Saymyhoney, Cai

It took us about 4 hours to get to the first campsite: Kabara, the burial site of Carl Akeley (18 Nov 1926). We searched for the actual grave and found it in pieces, apparently Congolese and/or Rwandese rebels had pillaged the grave for the enormous amounts of gold that were never buried with Mr. Akeley.  As it continued to rain we decided not to try and make it to the second camp site in one day, but set up camp and scout the area a little (read: set up tent and having a little snooze). That night we enjoyed Lewis’ recipe for mountaineering success: instant noodles with sardines (which is remarkably good) and went to bed early to get up fresh for the first summit attempt. It rained the entire night and when we woke up it still rained. However we were men of steel, not of sugar, so after cowering in our tent for 30 minutes waiting for the rain to stop we decided that it was time to leave.

African alpine vegetation on the higher slopes of Mt. Mikeno.

The trek up from Kabara is tough, a 60-degree hill completely covered in ankle (sometimes knee) deep mud, obviously carrying massive backpacks did not help to improve the situation. Unfortunately this was still the easy part of the mountain, so we decided not to complain about it and just get on with it. Or at least that was Lewis’ attitude. Pierre and I were near throwing up and complaining loudly to the trees around us. However we got through, and at the top of that stretch the world slowly started to evolve into the fairy-land of African alpine vegetation. Another 2 hours later (and still it rained), we made it to campsite two. Nameless as this location was, it must be one of the most amazing campsites in the world. Pitched on a little ridge just wide enough to put your tent, the panorama was astounding: In the west the smoking Nyiragongo volcano could be seen, in the south the majestic Karisimbi, in the west the smaller but very attractive Visoke and  to the north very close to us a wall, a massive wall of stone…. Our accompanying rangers looked at it, laughed in our faces and said, “you will never make it to the top. It’s impossible!” And I must say, I believed them.

The campsite with the spectacular view.

The next morning we rang Pierre’s lovely girlfriend who we desperately needed to look into a 50-year-old book describing the route to the summit. The book said something along the lines of, “Go up the first steep part, continue right along the ridge until you can go no further, turn back for a bit and then go up.” As far as useless advise goes, this was a winner. Since at this point I had absolutely no faith in us making it all the way to the top, I decided just to enjoy the trek and stop if it got too dangerous.

Yes, it was very steep. Too steep. Stupidly steep.

Clearly adrenaline screws with your mind because two hours later when I was balancing on a small ridge with a 100m drop on either side of me and the only thing stopping me from falling was my grip on some loose, wet, yellow moss…it didn’t seem like I stopped when it became dangerous at all. Since we were half way up, it obviously was no longer an option to turn back (I think they call it “summit fever”), so with fear in our eyes we continued to scramble up the mossy slopes. I vaguely remembered that during our preparations Pierre had suggested we bring a rope. For reasons unknown to me, our fearless lead climber Lewis had been of the opinion it wouldn’t be necessary; I decided I would make him eat those words (as well as the rope) if we made it down alive.

Two feet of moss.

After a harrowing 4-hour climb we made it to the top, and without being very emotional about it…it was very emotional. I felt a mix of elation, pride to be one of the very few ever to get up there (apparently less than 20 people), gratitude that I was still alive, anger that the bloody mountain top was completely covered in mist so I could hardly see my own feet let alone the incredible view, and lastly fear, fear for the way down…

Semi-delirious after reaching the summit.

A couple of quick summit snaps later, which were pretty crappy due to the mist, and a 2-minute search for Pierre’s lost lens cap, we decided that it was time to head on down. It was already past 11:00 am and we needed to get all the way down to Goma the same day. Strangely enough the way down went relatively smoothly and quicker than expected. It was sort of a very long, vertical, slippery-slide of moss mixed in with the infrequent but extremely unpleasant protruding rock that would abruptly eliminate any such pleasant thoughts (just imagine a rock being glued to the middle of a slippery-slide).

The rocky slippery slide down the mountain.

After making it down to the easier section of the mountain, we had a little party, many hugs, tears and jumping for joy.  Unfortunately we still had about 5 hours of descent to go. Anyway, to get to the end of the story: we made it all the way back safely, exhausted and in severe pain, but an experience and one achievement richer.

So for historic purposes I would just like to claim the following:

On August the 14th, 2011 Mikeno Mountain was summitted for the first time in 28 years by:
Lewis Mudge
Pierre Peron
Cai Tjeenk Willink

The historic team at the summit of Mt. Mikeno:

We haven’t been keeping up with Photo Friday and/or Video Friday, so today you get both, and it’s all about football (or “soccer” for you Americans). This video is about the community “Virunga Cup” tournament that took place a few weeks ago. The photos are from the new vs. old ranger game from last weekend . Enjoy!

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Virunga Cup Video by Katya.  (If you can’t see this video, click here)

Ranger Game:

Warden Emmanuel De Merode, Southern Sector Warden, Innocent Mburanumwe, and friend Jean Pierre watch from the top of the hill.

Jacqueline, visiting Virunga with her husband Jean Pierre, is surrounded by children on the hill next to the football field.

Theses photos were taken by Photographer Paul Taggart.

This mountain gorilla has traveled all over the world without moving from Virunga’s Mikeno sector where he lives with his large family of 38 gorillas.  Kwibesha is our star that represents our gorillas in most of the posters for the park, and has now reached 7 years old, a grown-up juvenile who can build his own nest each night and sleep by himself.

He was fortunate to be born in the incredible Kabirizi family, the largest family at Virunga National Park with a strong leader and many playmates for the young gorillas. But rangers are always anxious when a male gorilla graduates from juvenile to blackback, a time of life disturbed by the violent interactions of male gorillas fighting for dominance.

Kwibesha does not yet have a guardian in our Guard a Gorilla program. If you would like to join the program and choose a gorilla to support monthly, you will be helping our rangers in their effort to protect all of the mountain gorillas of Virunga National Park. Click on this link and choose a gorilla.

And again, happy birthday to our star, Kwibesha.

For the last two weeks, the bloodhound dog training program has been underway with supervision and training from Marlene Zähner, from Switzerland who runs what is probably the world’s leading bloodhound “mantrailing” centre in the World.  She has set up our canine unit and has been offering her expertise pro bono for several months now.

Marcel and Uschi Maierhofer came all the way from the German police special branch to help with the CSI (Crime Scene Investigation) training for the dogs and handlers, which has been a wonderful education in developing professional crime prevention skills amongst our rangers. We hope that the new tactics will make it much easier for us to stop the poaching in the park. See what you think…

Uschi and our ranger handlers, Shamavu, Kasereka and Alex walking with the puppies

Debriefing after the exercise

Marcel shows how to secure and handle a scent article, which a hound uses to fix a scent which can be followed over incredible distances for several days until the suspect is apprehended.

Starting exercise for lila, one of the 6 puppies

How to use the camera and take pictures with Patrice, the training coordinator

Kasereka and Sebiheri preserving scent articles at a simulated crime scene

The Congohound K9 Unit for Virunga

I just received a report from a local association telling us of a public demonstration by the lakeside communities in Virunga National Park.  The demonstration took place a few weeks ago in the fishing village of Vitshumbi.  Pictures speak louder than words:

“No to Illegal Oil Exploitation in Lake Edward”

“No to Oil Exploitation: That destroys our fish, that destroys our livelihoods, that destroys Virunga National Park.”

From the terrace of the main office, Mount Mikeno can be seen clearly.

On top of a forested hill about an hour drive north of Goma on a rough dirt road sits Rumangabo, Virunga National Park headquarters. To the east is the Mikeno gorilla sector and from the terrace of the main office is a perfect view of Mikeno volcano rising up to its pointed peak. On a clear night to the southwest you can see a red glow from the lava lake at the top of our famous Nyiragongo active volcano.

Nyiragongo Volcano with the glow of the lava lake at night. (Photo by Cai)

Colobus monkey mom and baby.

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Only another 642 meters (2106 ft) to reach the top for Thierry Bodson of WWF.

A few (indisputable) facts about the Rwenzori Mountains:

• The Congo side is THE BEST! (A completely unbiased fact)
• The Congo trek of the Rwenzori Mountains does not include muddy bogs and swamps (or so I’m told).
• The climb usually takes about 5 days round-trip from Mutsora, and possibly a few more if you go all the way to Margherita Peak, the highest point that is on the border of both Congo and Uganda.
• Margherita Peak is at 5109m (16,763 ft)
• There are cabins with beds to sleep in on the way up!
• There are some very funky plants mixed in with this mountain landscape (see pictures below).
• I might never climb this mountain, as I’m in terrible shape.
• Emmanuel (our beloved warden) has never climbed it either. I don’t feel so bad. (I see a challenge in the works here.)
• You’re welcome to dispute or confirm these facts if you’ve actually climbed the Rwenzoris from the Congo side.
• You’re even more welcome to get out of that office chair and come climb this amazing mountain. (I know, I know. That means me too.)

Many thanks to Thierry Bodson with World Wildlife Fund for these great photos. You can see more on our Facebook photo album HERE. And click on the photos below to see them larger.

1 - The beginning of the trek in the lowlands through a giant fern-like forest. Read the full story »

We have a new photo album on our Facebook page of the first three weeks with our bloodhound puppies. Click here to go to the album.  If you aren’t one of our Facebook fans yet, please join!

These dogs will be trained for anti-poaching by world-renowned bloodhound trainer and vet, Dr. Marlene Zähner. It’s an important program and will take time with on-going expenses for care and training. If you would like to assist in this program, you can donate toward monthly expenses or with one-time gifts. Find the “bloodhound” item on the right of this blog to contribute. Thank you for your support!

Here are a few samples from the album from last week:

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Last weekend, Emmanuel and I flew near the volcano rim to see the new shelters being constructed there. It was sunset and the scenery was simply stunning of Nyiragongo Volcano and the Virunga Massif - the string of volcanoes separating Rwanda and Congo. (Click on the photos to see larger)

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Stone buildings and bougainvillea at Mutsora give the feeling of a Spanish home.

Mutsora, our headquarters in the north, is an old station with beautiful stone buildings from the 1930s, brick buildings with French doors and old tile roofs, large expanses of lawn, jungle overhanging a river, and the majestic Rwenzori Mountains towering overhead. The starting point for the 5-day Rwenzori trek begins a few kilometers down the road. Any serious mountain trekkers out there? Mutsora has a lovely new guesthouse for travelers. Come for a visit! (Click on a photo to see it larger)

Mutsora Airstrip with the Rwenzori Mountains in the distance. Read the full story »